VENICE, ITALY
«Sep. 2023»


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw

VENICE 2023 | VENICE REGATTA STORICO | VENICE 2023 B&W | VENICE PALAZZO GRASSI & DUCALE |
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Photos © Ruud Leeuw


 

The first time I visited Venice was with my parents, must have been aged 10 or so; that would be around 1965 or 1966.
The next time was in 1978, with my girlfriend (later my wife). Another visit followed in 2009, rather more for allowing my aging mother one last peek at her favourite city.
My visit in 2015 started to included personal 'themes'.
In 2020, with much less tourists because of the Corona travel restrictions, I targeted more various interests: visiting bookshops, and following 'Commissario Brunetti's' footsteps through Venice, while also visiting locations in the Laguna I had not visited before - plus a wonderful photo exhibition of work by Henri Cartier-Bresson.

In 2022 IL CARNEVALE was the main purpose of visiting 'La Serenissima, while this year I focussed on the REGATTA STORICA (1st Sunday of September), taking in my stride an interesting photo exhibition (again!) in Palazzo Grassi and snatched a hurried first visit to Palazzo Ducale.
I hope you will enjoy another report on 'Queen of the Adriatic', 'City of Water', 'City of Masks', 'City of Bridges', 'The Floating City' and 'City of Canals'..

The first time we visited Venice by car; parking these days is not a problem with good capacity at Tronghetto
and Garage San Marco (@Piazzale Roma). This time Venice was 'just a stop en route' and we needed the car.
Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw


 


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Monument to Victor Emmanuel II, and monumental it certainly is! Located on the Riva degli Schiavoni.

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
A busker in Cannaregio, alas largely ignored.

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Tourists enjoying themselves with picture taking on the Accademia bridge (Ponte dell'Accademia)

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Photography as a commercial undertaking and that's one serious camera!


 

Carlo Goldoni
Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw

Carlo Osvaldo Goldoni (b.25Feb1707 – d.06Feb1793) was an Italian playwright and librettist from the Republic of Venice. His works include some of Italy's most famous and best-loved plays.
Audiences have admired the plays of Goldoni for their ingenious mix of wit and honesty. His plays offered his contemporaries images of themselves, often dramatizing the lives, values, and conflicts of the emerging middle classes.

He relates in his Memoirs that a considerable part of his time was spent in reading Greek and Latin comedies. He had already begun writing at this time and, in his third year, he composed a libellous poem (Il colosso) in which he ridiculed the daughters of certain Pavian families. He was expelled from the school and had to leave the city (1725).
He studied law at Udine, and eventually took his degree at University of Modena.
Educated as a lawyer, and holding lucrative positions as secretary and counsellor, he seemed, indeed, at one time to have settled down to the practice of law, but following an unexpected summons to Venice, after an absence of several years; he changed his career, and thenceforth he devoted himself to writing plays and managing theatres.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carlo_Goldoni]


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
In 1757 he engaged in a bitter dispute with playwright Carlo Gozzi, which left him utterly disgusted with the tastes of
his countrymen; so much so that in 1761 he moved to Paris, where he received a position at court and was put in charge of
the Théâtre-Italien. He spent the rest of his life in France, composing most of his plays in French and writing his memoirs
in that language. [¬ Wikipedia]

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Teatro Comunale Carlo Goldoni
'Goldoni enjoyed considerable popularity in France; in 1769, when he retired to Versailles, the King gave him a pension.
He lost this pension after the French Revolution.'

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
The façade and ironworks are indeed impressive.


 


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Exterior of the Parish Church of Saint Moisè, a plaque on the exterior in memory of the family Vincentius (Vincenzo) Fini.
Vincenzo Fini (b.17Aug1606, Venice – d.29Feb1660, Venice) was a lawyer, procurator of Citra and holder of other
influential offices in Venice. I have an interior image on my VENICE 2023 IN COLOUR page.

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw


 

DRINKWATER WELLS IN VENICE
Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw

'From the very beginning, the Venetian Lagoon could provide plenty of fish to the Venetians to feed themselves.
However, something just as important was missing entirely: there was no trace of drinkable water.

In the past, and still today in some areas of the world, the lack of water could be solved through the construction of draw-wells. Thanks to such wells, people could access underground water resources.
However, Venice was built on a swampland area in a salty lagoon, and the only kind of water underground was saltwater!'
veneziaautentica.com/venetian-wells-venice/]


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
The well in the garden of Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti, at the foot of Ponte dell'Accademia (San Marco).

'How could Venetian have fresh water in Venice?
The only way for Venetians to have fresh water in Venice was by filtering rainwater and collecting it at the bottom of Venetian wells, which work differently from wells around the rest of the world.
To do so, Venetian developed a smart process that involved a few important steps.

The first step of the process was to find a big empty surface. This step is the reason why Venetian wells are found exclusively in squares and in courtyards...'

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
The same well, now a pretty good excuse to capture a fascinating stare.

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
the sestieres (neighbourhoods) of Venice

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Camp S. Maurizio - with tourists and pigeons, both omni present here in Venice!

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Well at Corte Querini in Castello, just across from sestiere San Marco, by way of very small alleys

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
A well at the Campiello de la Fraterna (Castello sestiere), people exiting the Salizada Dei Greci on the right.

'The idea was to dig 5 to 6 meters deep (16-20 feet), and use clay to create a thick water-resistant layer at the bottom.
Then, Venetians filled these deep holes with stones and sand from the riverbeds of rivers nearby on the mainland.
Finally, Venetians built 2 or 4 gutters symmetrically around the well to drain the rainwater falling on the square and the roofs of the buildings all around it.
This solution is the reason why squares in Venice are not perfectly even: the ground around every gutter has a bit of a slope to help the water naturally flow towards the gutter and be drained.'
veneziaautentica.com/venetian-wells-venice/]


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Campo S. Provolo, a little north of Campo San Zaccaria (Castello)

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Campo San Geremia (Cannaregio), which has four wells for its a large square!

'Once the rain fell on the 'campi' of Venice, the water naturally flowed towards the guts and was drained.
The water was then filtrated mechanically by flowing through the sand and stones underground and would stop once it reached the layer of waterproof clay at the bottom.
The bricks used for the 'chimneys' of the wells were very porous. These bricks, called 'pozzali', allowed then the water to filter through them and fill in the 'chimney'.
Venetians could then collect water at the bottom of the chimney through a bucket, just like one would do with any other kind of well.'


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
The second well at Campo San Geremia (Cannaregio)

The Republic always promoted and coördinated the creation of wells. Proof of that are the decrees that the Great Council wrote in 1322, 1424, and 1768 ordering the construction respectively of 50, 30 and 55 new public wells all over the city!
Water was crucial, therefore the use and supervision of public wells were very strict.
Indeed, the Venetian Superintendency supervised all wells, and local priests and block leaders were the only people with keys to access the wells assigned to them.
Venetians could access wells twice per day, in the morning and in the evening, at the ringing of the 'wells bells'.
veneziaautentica.com/venetian-wells-venice/]


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
The 3rd well at Campo Geremia, in front of Chiesa dei Santi Geremia e Lucia - Santuario di Lucia.

'In 1858, a report by the Comune di Venezia made a census of the wells in Venice: 180 working public wells
and 6.046 private wells! The same research also showed that in previous centuries 556 wells had been
closed and removed, one of which from the most famous places of all: Piazza San Marco.'

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
No.4 at Campo San Geremia (Cannaregio; this one sits smack in the middle of the square)

'The creation of a well was complex, requiring very specialized workers and resulting, therefore, a big investment. For these reasons, the Serenissima created a corporation specialized in the construction of public wells.
No other entities were authorized to do so.
Contributions, nevertheless, were welcome and encouraged: the Government always rewarded largely, with kudos and prestige, every rich Venetian family who would donate (read finance) a well to the city.
This is why on many "vere da pozzo", the visible part of the wells, inscriptions or bas-relief referring to the generous family can be spotted within the decorations.'

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
The well at 'Hotel Cannaregio 2357', enter 'Volto Santo' from Rio Terà de la Maddalena, located along the
Rio di San Marcuola, at Ponte de l'Anconeta.

'Being a member of the specialized corporation aforementioned and called confraternita dei Pozzeri, or well-makers confraternity, was a prestigious title. This honour, along with the specific knowledge and job expertise, was passed on from fathers to sons.
However, there was one condition to it: every Pozzere had to vow to build wells only for the Venetian Republic!'
veneziaautentica.com/venetian-wells-venice/]


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
The same well at Hotel Cannaregio 2357, from a different perspective.

'Despite the presence of a great number of wells in Venice, the growing Venetian population meant a growing demand for water.
This led, in 1386, to the creation of the “corporazione degli acquaroli”, a corporation whose role was to ensure that the city had enough water at all times.
In case of need, members of this corporation would row to the Brenta, a river on the mainland nearby, fill their boats with freshwater, row it back to Venice, and fill up the wells again with the use of wooden pipes.'


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
The well at Campo San Marcuola, looking out on Vapo station San Marcuola.

In the 1600s, the population in Venice grew so much that in 1609 the 'acquaroli' decided to dig an artificial channel to
speed up the delivery of water. The new channel, 1m wide and 13,5km long, started from the Brenta river and ended in Moranzani, much closer to Venice.'

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Campo San Marcuola with the same well, looking towards Chiesa Parrocchiale di San Marcuola and past the
church the 30 meters towards our accommodation.

'The Acquaroli” had the permission to sell water for direct consumption, just like modern street vendors would do.
Since the 'Acquaroli' were cruising through most of the city to fill in the many Venetian wells, they started also collecting garbage.
They kept the same type of boats, now called 'scoazzere', but began storing the freshwater in closed barrels to preserve its purity.'
veneziaautentica.com/venetian-wells-venice/]


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Ponte S. Boldo on Campo San Boldo (sestiere San Polo)

'One of these laws made it mandatory for the orders to give access to its wells at specific times of the day to all Venetian citizens.
This brilliant system that relied on public, private and religious wells, was carefully maintained, and strictly monitored the access to and the use of water is one of the most important factors that allowed Venice to grow and thrive for many centuries.
When the Serenissima fell, the lack of care of the new rulers led this efficient but delicate water system to collapse.'


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Encora: Campo S. Boldo, for the backdrop is as important as the well itself!

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Campo San Agostin, a 3 minute walk away from Campo S. Boldo (San Polo).

"After the collapse, the solution to the needs of the population, could be met through the construction of a more modern and efficient system: an aqueduct!
The construction of the Venice aqueduct started in 1881 with the lay-down of a cast iron pipe (800mm diameter) passing under the Lagoon and connecting Moranzani to Venice.
The works were finished in 1884 and authorities celebrated the success by building a fountain in the middle of Saint Mark’s square!'
veneziaautentica.com/venetian-wells-venice/]


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Campo dei Frari (San Polo)

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Campo de San Basegio (Dorsoduro a.k.a. Dorsodouro - en.wikipedia.org:_Dorsoduro)

Curious Facts:
'¬There are only 3 signed wells: the pozzo at Ca’ D’Oro created by Bartolomeo Bon in 1427 and the bronze wells in the Palazzo Ducale court, created by Nicolò Conti and Alfonso Alberghetti in 1556 and in 1559
¬There was a well in San Marco’s square, but it had to be closed because it required continuous intervention. The water inside of the well tended to be contaminated and to become smelly too quickly; the water was therefore not drinkable but even worse it was also polluting the area with its bad smell.
¬The total surface of wells is equal to 10% of the whole surface of the city!
¬Every inhabitant had the right to have in average of 5.5-6.8 L of water per day.'
veneziaautentica.com/venetian-wells-venice/]

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Kids playing football probably at Campo S.Stefano. The sign behind mom watching reads Parochia de S. Stefano.

The EXIF data of the photo shows this photo was taken only a minute after the one above.
Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
The Leaning Tower of the Church of St. Stefano.
The photo was probably taken from Campo Santo Stefano, though I am not 100% certain. Apparently this church is worth a
visit for several curiosities. Its interior looks like the keel of an inverted ship: you can even see the braces from wall to wall and the pronounced shape of the 'bottom' which in this case is the roof... Something for a next visit!


 

#_OnReading

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
My camera is always hunting for people reading printed books, for I both value those people as well as reading!

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw


 

STREET PHOTOGRAPHY

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
They had a laugh when I told the girls I found it hilarious that they all had their backs turned to the young man..

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
These kids had a laugh because I was busy taking a photo of a pigeon inside Bar Tiziano while I was outside.

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
The affluent at a restaurant on Piazza San Marco; I like all the interactions going on.

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
There are no motorized vehicles here, which creates an atmosphere of increased isolation befitting an isle- which
is of course in sharp contrast with the vast amount of visitors from all over the world here!

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Romantic moment inside Bar Tiziano. That man staring (at me?) does the trick for me.
Bar Tiziano is a rare local on the narrow Salizada S. Giovanni Grisostomo, an always crowded thoroughfare from
Rialto to Cannaregio. Nice low-key atmosphere here, serving drinks & traditional dishes.


 


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
We had tickets, as always, for the Vaporetto (water-bus) for 2 days, 03+04 Sept., saves wear on our poor feet.

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Police kept onlookers away from the Rialto Bridge during the Historical Regatta. Rare this way, without people!

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Calle de la Morte; I did my best to make it 'dark & foreboding'..

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Manin at, obviously, Campo Manin.

Daniele Manin (b.13May1804 – d.22Sep1857) was an Italian patriot, statesman and leader of the Risorgimento in Venice.Many Italian historians consider him to be an important figure in Italian unification.

Daniele Manin was born Daniele Fonseca in Ramo Astori, Venice, where his birthplace is commemorated by a plaque.
Samuele converted to Christianity from the Jewish faith in 1759 and took the name Manin because Ludovico Manin, the last Doge of Venice, sponsored his conversion.
Manin studied law at Padua and then practiced at the bar in Venice, his native city.
A man of great learning and a profound jurist, from an early age he held a deep hatred for Austria


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Cats were once very common in Venice, but upon this visit I came hardly across one..!
"..the cats disappeared like Venetians are disappearing."

So I googled this mystery and came across an explanation: 'Just a few decades ago, Venice was full of furry cats. They had their own city, one that included roofs of buildings and secret walled gardens. You’d smell the pee they marked their territories with in the back alleys. But in the space of those thirty years, the street cats of Venice have all but vanished.

For centuries, Venetians lived side-by-side with cats. They were brought in by traders from the Middle East and cherished by the local population for their usefulness in keeping away rats, in houses as well as on merchant ships. Special breeds were introduced in the 13th century that were especially adept hunters. They were even credited for helping to save the city from the plague of 1348 by keeping disease carrying rats at bay.
Famous cats were even a part of Venetian history.
The cat of Doge Francesco Morosini was brought everywhere with the naval commander, including into war. Nini, a white cat who lived at the Caffe dei Frari was an international celebrity and he even had a wake held in his honor when he died in 1894.

A British lady named Helena Sanders arrived in Venice in 1965, when many of the cats of the city were sick and in need of organized care. Her name was Helena Sanders. She came to be an advocate for Venetian street cats and Sanders was among the first in Italy to practice TNR, or trap-neuter-return.
In the 1950s, animal welfare activists in the U.K began to trap alley cats in order to sterilize and neuter them before returning them to their outdoor homes. This was not only a way to eradicate diseases, but it also allowed them to control the population.
Just 70 years ago, it was unheard of to have a cat live entirely indoors. It just wasn’t possible until the mid-20th century. The development of refrigeration and canned cat food meant that cats didn’t have to hunt. The marketing of cat litter began in the 1960s, so they wouldn’t need to go out for the bathroom either.
The cat and the dog were entering the bourgeois family circle in these decades as the family pet.

In just 30 years, the city has lost half of its residents, going from 120.000 to about about 55.000 currently. Meanwhile, the number of visitors has skyrocketed up to 20 million annually, half of which don’t stay even one night. Along with these demographic shifts have come social and cultural changes...
Local bakeries, fish markets and butchers are slowly encroached upon by easy and quick supermarket culture. Artisan boutiques are closing and dime-a-dozen souvenir shops are popping up.
The alley cats who roamed free and owned the city’s back streets represent a kind of wildness and autonomy that Venetians have lost.'
For the long read see theculturetrip.com/ - - - /what-happened-to-venices-street-cats



 


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Police are vigilant during the Regatta Storico.

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
Onlookers applaud for the Regatta racers proceeding to the starting line

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
I have a dedicated page on my website for this REGATTA STORICO 2023


Late afternoon entry into our apartment, one more time later that evening we'd go out for dinner, time for 'LAST TIMEs..'
Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw

Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw
We had a pleasant stay and a zillion impressions! Arrivederci Venezia!

 

VENICE 2023 | VENICE REGATTA STORICO | VENICE 2023 B&W | VENICE PALAZZO GRASSI & DUCALE |
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Created: 23-Oct-2020 | Updated 02-Nov-2023