VENICE, ITALY
«Sep. 2023»


Venice 09-2023 (c) Ruud Leeuw

Photos © Ruud Leeuw


The first time I visited Venice was with my parents, must have been aged 10 or so; that would be around 1965 or 1966.
The next time was in 1978, with my girlfriend (later my wife). Another visit followed in 2009, rather more for allowing my aging mother one last peek at her favourite city. My visit in 2015 started to included personal 'themes'.
In 2020, with much less tourists because of the Corona travel restrictions, I targeted various interests: visiting bookshops, and following 'Commissario Brunetti's' footsteps through Venice, while also visiting locations in the Laguna I had not visited before - plus a wonderful photo exhibition of work by Henri Cartier-Bresson.
In 2022 IL CARNEVALE was the main purpose of visiting 'La Serenissima, while this year I focussed on the REGATTA STORICA (1st Sunday of September), taking in my stride an interesting photo exhibition (again!) in Palazzo Grassi and snatched a hurried first visit to Palazzo Ducale.
I hope you will enjoy another report on 'Queen of the Adriatic', 'City of Water', 'City of Masks', 'City of Bridges', 'The Floating City' and 'City of Canals'..


VENICE 2023 | VENICE REGATTA STORICO | VENICE 2023 B&W | VENICE PALAZZO GRASSI & DUCALE |
| ITALY 2023 PAGE ONE | ITALY PAGE TWO |

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Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
The first time we visited Venice by car; parking these days is not a problem with good capacity at Tronghetto
and Garage San Marco (Piazzale Roma). Maybe next time I'll explore Mestre for accommation and travel inbound by train.

 

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
From Tronchetto, we travelled by speedy boat transfer: €10 one way per person, less than 20 mins. to San Marco.
Having only the afternoon here, we were a bit rushed. Maybe there are cheaper transfers to San Marco from Tronchetto.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
My heart started beating a little faster getting reacquainted with Venice again!
We only walked the small streets around San Marco, spent a massive amount on books at 'Studium'.
By 16:30 we had to be at the docks again for our return trip to Tronchetto, we did not want to risk the last one at 17:30.

 


Disembarkation at Tronchetto, we travelled on that small boat. We had not explored alternatives due to lack of time.
 

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
We had booked one night outside Venice (Do Ciacole in Relais, @Mira). One is more or less forced to dine in here, though
we're not great fans of 'fine dining'. But indeed the food, and wine, was good and the room probably the best we enjoyed
these 2.5 weeks in Italy! The small distance on the Autostrada from this hotel to Venice was free of charge.


 


Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Reporting at Hotel San Geremia for the entry code and keys to our apartment nearby.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Our room, in a seperate building rented out through Hotel San Geremia. Very near Vapo Station Ca' San Marcuola.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Our apartment (room plus bathroom) was on a corner, this is one view. The other window also looks out on this canal.
Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
This is the view from the other window, on the same canal, ending into the Grand Canal.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Kids enjoying themselves near the entrance to our apartment. A quiet area, only a short walk away from Strada Nuova.

Map of Venice's sestiere
Our hotel location was in Cannaregio, the building is on the Canal Grande. Fine location!

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
It was warm, the heat bouncing around on the concrete and marble. So one has to keep drinking, eh..?


 


Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
The City of Canals: Venice

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Gondolas passing in the Canal Grande

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
One never tires of these canals here..

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
The Carabinieri on station near the start of the Historical Regatta.
Alas, one wasn't to take position on the Accademia bridge, the police kept people from pausing (same on Rialto Bridge).


 


Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Nicely done, but what has Mona Lisa to do with Venice..?

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Plenty of tourists again in Venice, the quiet days of post-Corona are a thing of the past. So I made it a point to
photograph some people whom I think could still be residents of Venice, meeting and chatting, no doubt
complaining about 'Italian affairs' and the onslaught by tourists..
Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Nicely decorated café on the Strada Nuova (a.k.a. Rio Terà S.Leonardo), but too soon after breakfast to try
what's on offer here.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
I always have my eyes out for the numerous water wells which I may not have documented on previous visits..
This well is on the Salizzada Malipiero.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
It helps if I can put a name to the location where I encountered the well.. Here's one on Corte Coppo.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Antonio Vivaldi Chiesa a.k.a. San Giovanni in Bragora Chiesa (Parrocchiale di S.Giovanni in Bragora) on
Campiello del Piovan, 3790, 30122 Venezia VE.

This is at the same square, Campiello del Piovan:
Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Moving through the small streets and alleys it's not difficult to loose the crowds, I find.

At the casino, walking from Strada Nuova after dinner with 'Old Wild West', I came across another well
Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
The entrance from the street to the casino, very close to our room.


 


Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Breakfast in Strada Nuova. The French Toast was disappointing: the thin toast only covered by banana as
far as the eye can see. A far cry from what one gets in the USA and Canada. Chinese run this place, as they
do with many hospitality- and souvenir shops. A development that I find disappointing.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
The Strada Nuova is wide but the bridges form bottlenecks in the stream of tourists.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Experimenting with shooting through a number of moving people. I bought a nice, cheap watch as a souvenir here.

William Eggleston is quoted as having said: "I am afraid that there are more people than I can imagine who can go no further appreciating a picture that is a rectangle with an object in the middle of it, which they can identify. They don't care what is around the object aslong as nothing interferes with the object itself, right in the center."

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Getting some work done in a local café

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw

'In the sestiere (neighbourhood) of Cannaregio, in Campo Santi Apostoli, one will experience the spirit and the dynamics of everyday Venetian life, with kids shouting and running at breakneck speed around two big trees and the benches where mums and elderly people sit and the non – stop coming and going of Venetians, who are hurrying to Rialto or the station.
One of the main arteries of Venice starts exactly from this campo: it is the Strada Nuova.
This street, dedicated to the King of Italy Vittorio Emanuele II, was inaugurated in 1871. It was then renamed "Strada Nuova" by Venetian people.
With its 400 m length and 10 m width, it is surely the longest street in Venice and represents a clear exception in the urban landscape of Venice that tends to be chaotic and overcrowded.'

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
The gondolas do a brisk business; no doubt they are pleased Venice features again high omong the global destinations.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
I am pretty sure, one day I'm going to buy one of these as a souvenir..

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Interior of the Parish Church of Saint Moisè, a plaque on the exterior in memory of the family Vincentius (Vincenzo) Fini.
Vincenzo Fini (b.17Aug1606, Venice – d.29Feb1660, Venice) was a lawyer, procurator of Citra and holder of other
influential offices in Venice. The impressive façade is on my B&W page.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
'Bridge of Sighs' in the background

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Always a challenge to produce an image of Piazza San Marco that's a little different..

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Renovations at Piazzaetta San Marco; note how close the water is under the tiles!

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
The salty water of the Venetian Lagoon no doubt plays havoc on these tiles and cement.


 


Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
The past few years I've dedicated some of my time here in Venice documenting the historic water wells.
There is always much to enjoy in the background too: buildings, laundry, people. This is Campo S. Stin.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
No doubt that fountain tabs its water from the same source that well once did. Near Sotoportego S. Rocco, on
our walk from Campo dei Frari to Campo San Stin. At a flower stall.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Allegedly the only surviving boatyard here to produce the gondolas; correct me if I'm wrong: EMAIL!

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Fondamenta Toletta in Dorseduro

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
La Toletta is, with Studium, my favourite bookshop here in Venice.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Libreria A.Bertoni on Calle de la Mandola (which leads from Campo Sant'Angelo to Campo Manin in San Marco).
I don't think I've seen it ever open during my visits to Venice.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
The actual shop in Rio Terra dei Assassini. Must have a look inside one day.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
The mass do indeed add a touch of flavour, but too obvious a souvenir.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Shooting through a moving crowd again.
Bar Tiziano is a rare local on the narrow Salizada S. Giovanni Grisostomo, an always crowded thoroughfare from
Rialto to Cannaregio. Nice low-key atmosphere here, serving drinks & traditional dishes.


 


Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
The iconic view from Ponte dell'Accademia my parents always enjoyed so much. It is indeed a sight to behold!

This is the top of Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, seen above in the distance.
Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
The figure moves slowly in the wind, quite something for a windvane..!

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
'CDS Vigilanza', I assume one of many police forces. A bit comical, don't you think?
www.cdsvigilanza.it explains how they do constant monitoring ('Planting and surveillance'), have trained staff for
transportation of valuables, and carry out 'Port Surveillance' (surveillance service is authorised not only by the Prefecture of Venice, but also by the Port Authority and the Port Authority of Venice, in the port and maritime areas, at ports and docks).

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Also on shore watchful eyes.
When I tried to explain, to the staring policeman, pointing out the street sign -thinking Cavalli meant 'Knights'-,
I later understood his frustrated remark (snorting: "tourists!") for Cavalli apparently means 'Horses'! lol

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
VIP location for the Historical Regatta

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Rialto, a rare sight: without the crowds populating the balustrades. Police kept people away for the Regatta to proceed.


 


Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
HISTORICAL REGATTA

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
First a few pictures of practice runs, the day before the actual regatta.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Police kept the audience away from the Accademia Bridge, I had to look elsewhere to find a spot for my photography

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Party time!

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
I found a spot at the far end of C. del Tragheto. A dedicated page one can find HERE..

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
A participant of the Regatta Storico has moored to watch the Regatta races.

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
Moving towards the starting line..

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
A dedicated page for the Historical Regatta 2023 one can find HERE..

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw

Visit to Venice Sep.2023 - Photos (c) Ruud Leeuw
I have a dedicated page on my website for the REGATTA STORICO 2023

 

VENICE 2023 | VENICE REGATTA STORICO | VENICE 2023 B&W | VENICE PALAZZO GRASSI & DUCALE |
| ITALY 2023 PAGE ONE | ITALY PAGE TWO |

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Created: 20-Oct-2023 | Updated: 04-Dec-2023