VENICE, ITALY
«Sep. 2023»


Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

Photos © Ruud Leeuw


The first time I visited Venice was with my parents, must have been aged 10 or so; that would be around 1965 or 1966.
The next time was in 1978, with my girlfriend (later my wife). Another visit followed in 2009, rather more for allowing my aging mother one last peek at her favourite city. My visit in 2015 started to included personal 'themes'.
In 2020, with much less tourists because of the Corona travel restrictions, I targeted various interests: visiting bookshops, and following 'Commissario Brunetti's' footsteps through Venice, while also visiting locations in the Laguna I had not visited before - plus a wonderful photo exhibition of work by Henri Cartier-Bresson.
In 2022 IL CARNEVALE was the main purpose of visiting 'La Serenissima, while this year I focussed on the REGATTA STORICA (1st Sunday of September), taking in my stride an interesting photo exhibition (again!) in Palazzo Grassi and snatched a hurried first visit to Palazzo Ducale.
I hope you will enjoy another report on 'Queen of the Adriatic', 'City of Water', 'City of Masks', 'City of Bridges', 'The Floating City' and 'City of Canals'..


VENICE 2023 | VENICE REGATTA STORICO | VENICE 2023 B&W | VENICE PALAZZO GRASSI & DUCALE |
ITALY 2023 PAGE ONE | ITALY PAGE TWO

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Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
Chronorama a Plalazzo Grassi 12.03.23-07.01.24 Venezia
Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
The first fashion publication were stylish drawings, before the advent of photography.

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
The first woman to wear trousers in public! Ca. 1911, photo by Paul Thompson.

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
Some names I came across (e.g. Cecil Beaton), others were new to me (e.g. Serge Balkin, a photo I take too these days: 'LOOK')

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
This is a photo in my series 'LOOK'

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
"Caught in the crossfire between the financial crash of 1929 and the beginning of WWII, the 1930s
lost the mad exuberence of the 1920s."

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
Villa Malcontenta, built on Brenta Canal - by A. Costa (the name 'Brenta' is also mentioned on my Regatta Page and B&W)
André Kertész is of course an icon in photography and am pleased to say I have several books of his work.

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
Visitors to the exhibition here in Palazzo Grassi, in serious conversation; perhaps about Villa Malcontenta?

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
André Kertész (1932) and a beautiful portrait of Marle Dietrich by Cecil Beaton (1932)

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
Edward Steichen (1931) and Margeret Bourke-White (1931)

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
Two portraits by Edward Steichen: Fanny Brice (1923) and Lee Miller (1928)
Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
A fantastic potrait of Marlene Dietrich by Irving Penn and work by Lee Miller, who is also featured on my England 2023
Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
Portraits by Edward Weston (José Clemente Orozco, 1933) and Berenice Abbott (James Joyce, 1926)

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)
'LOOK'

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
Exit through the giftshop... Since I already had spent my budget for photobooks I did not buy the catalogue.

Chronorama exhibition at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (2023)

Palazzo Grassi, Venezia

Palazzo Grassi, Venezia
Palazzo Grassi truly is a palace!

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)


 

 

PALAZZO DUCALE / DOGE'S PALACE

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
The courtyard and 'Scala dei Giganti'

The Doge's Palace (IT: Palazzo Ducale; Venetian: Pałaso Dogal) is a palace built in Venetian Gothic style, and one of the main landmarks of the city of Venice in northern Italy.
The palace was the residence of the Doge of Venice, the supreme authority of the former Republic of Venice.
It was built in 1340 and extended and modified in the following centuries.
It became a museum in 1923 and is one of the 11 museums run by the Fondazione Musei Civici di Venezia.
[¬ Wikipedia]

Doge's Palace, Venice
Ground floor including the courtyard

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
Historic gondola preserved, with a cosy cabin during the cold and damp season.

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
'Scala dei Giganti'

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
'Scala dei Sensori' and Hercules killing the Hydra, the multi-headed monster. By Tiziano Aspetti (late 16th century).

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
Inside one is astounded by the immense story-telling paintings, on the walls as well as the ceilings!
Left and right: Sala del Collegio (Council Chamber), paintings by Tintoretto.

Tintoretto (born Jacopo Robusti; late September or early October 1518 – d.31May1594) was an Italian painter identified with the Venetian school.
His contemporaries both admired and criticized the speed with which he painted, and the unprecedented boldness of his brushwork. For his phenomenal energy in painting he was termed Il Furioso.
His work is characterised by his muscular figures, dramatic gestures and bold use of perspective, in the Mannerist style. [¬ Wikipedia]

 

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
I was forced by the approaching start of the Regatta Storica to visit in haste; next time I'll look in more detail.

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
Gruesome, don't you think..?

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
I don't think I will ever learn about all the Doge's here in
Venice, but I would like to learn more about those the most
important, those who played a significant role (e.g. Ludovico Manin?).

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

In 810, Doge Agnello Participazio moved the seat of government from the island of Malamocco to the area of the present-day Rialto, when it was decided a palatium duci (Latin for 'ducal palace') should be built.
However, no trace remains of that 9th-century building as the palace was partially destroyed in the 10th century by a fire.
The following reconstruction works were undertaken at the behest of Doge Sebastiano Ziani (1172–1178). A great reformer, he would drastically change the entire layout of the St. Mark's Square.
The new palace was built out of fortresses, one façade to the Piazzetta, the other overlooking the St. Mark's Basin.

Although only few traces remain of that palace, some Byzantine-Venetian architecture characteristics can still be seen at the ground floor, with the wall base in Istrian stone and some herring-bone pattern brick paving.
[¬ Wikipedia]

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
One for my 'LOOK' series. The warm red colours and low light creates a 'serene' atmosphere, I think.

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
It seems these visitors are looked upon with degree of disapproval..?

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
'To ensure impartiality, the elections provided for a complex and meticulous mechanism, where lots were combined with
a succession of ballots. In 1178 the 11 electors, to whom the Assembly had delegated the final vote, passed to 40.
Between 1229 and 1249, they were brought from 40 to 41, to avoid parity of votes, as it had happened during the election
of Doge Jacopa Tiepolo in 1229. In 1268 the mechanism was perfected and it lasted, with some modifications, until the
end of the Republic.'

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
I had hoped that my 'short guide' which I had bought there, would help me identifying some of the paintings.
But, alas, it seems that I have to research a lot more to identify the painters and meanings of these fine paintings.
Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
'Sala delle Quattro Porte'

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
Not quite sure but I think this is the Sala delle Quattro Porte (Room of the Four Doors) - overwhelming!

'Political changes in the mid-13th century led to the need to re-think the palace's structure due to the considerable increase in the number of the Great Council's members.
The new Gothic palace's constructions started around 1340, focusing mostly on the side of the building facing the lagoon. Only in 1424 did Doge Francesco Foscari decide to extend the rebuilding works to the wing overlooking the Piazzetta, serving as law-courts, and with a ground-floor arcade on the outside, open first-floor loggias running along the façade, and the internal courtyard side of the wing, completed with the construction of the Porta della Carta (1442).

In 1483, a violent fire broke out in the side of the palace overlooking the canal, where the Doge's Apartments were. Once again, an important reconstruction became necessary.'
[¬ Wikipedia]


Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
A quick glimpse outside, to a breath of present day reality.

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

'Another huge fire in 1547 destroyed some of the rooms on the second floor, but fortunately without undermining the structure as a whole.
Refurbishment works were being held at the palace when in 1577 a third fire destroyed the Scrutinio (Ballot) Room and the Great Council Chamber, together with works by Gentile da Fabriano, Pisanello, Alvise Vivarini, Vittore Carpaccio, Giovanni Bellini, Pordenone, and Titian.' [¬ Wikipedia]

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
The painting on the left, with coins and Doge's cap thrown up, is 'Juno Offers Gifts to Venice', by
Paolo Callari (a.k.a. 'Veronese'; 1553-54)

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
Venezia is most often displayed as a woman.

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
'Doge Angels' (?) on the first floor. Meeting Room Grand Council. Painting from 1500s (by whom?).

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
Maggior Consiglio, its vastness cannot be captured properly on camera. Entrance to the Ballot Room is the far corner.
Sala del Maggior Consiglio
Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
THE ARMOURY

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
From the earliest times the palace was equipped with a weapons depot (and with armed garrisons in defence of
government activities) which has been documented in this area since the 14th century.

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
War, rape and plunder..

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
Lions walking..
Lions Walking | Doge's Palace

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
The painting on the left is: 'Neptune Offering Gifts to Venice' (1748–1750) by Giovan Battista Tiepolo.

Two details of a huge painting by D. Tintoretto in the Sala del Maggior Consiglio (Hall of the Great Council)
Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
The Venetians had to fight immense battles to establish their maritime empire, some gruesome fighting displayed here.

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
The largest of all the Institutional Chambers is the Sala del Maggior Consiglio, which is decorated with works by many
noted masters. Here, one can see one of the paintings on the south side of the chamber, which overlooks the Venetian Lagoon. This work depicts The Battle of Punta Salvore, and was painted by Domenico Tintoretto (ca. 1605).

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
The many historic wells of Venice are als documented on my VENICE 2023 B&W page. Glad to add some more here.

Palazzo Ducale | Doge's Palace (Venezia 2023)
Here is are spare wells and other parts...

 

 

VENICE 2023 | VENICE REGATTA STORICO | VENICE 2023 B&W | VENICE PALAZZO GRASSI & DUCALE |
ITALY 2023 PAGE ONE | ITALY PAGE TWO

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Created: 01-NovOct-2023 | Updated: 12-Nov-2023